It is difficult to find an authentic Asian restaurant in Geneva. Geneva’s Asian population is sparse compared to cities like London, Paris, or San Francisco.

But where there is a will there is a way, and Asians always manage to find the authentic restaurants. I’ve jotted down just a few addresses Asians have recommended to me below. I’ve checked them out and they are well worth trying.

Please note these are not fancy restaurants, but because they are frequented for their authenticity, it is advisable to reserve.

Lai Thai

Northern Thai food, which is quite hot and spicy. Set menus go for 55, 65 and 78 CHF and the servings are generous. Located in what was formerly a Geneva institution, the Café Gothard.

Hashimoto

Unpretentious. A traditional Swiss café, with all the wooden benches and bistro chairs still in place and a few Japanese decorations added here and there. The Japanese come here for the sushi. Great miso soup and seaweed salad. Numerous set menus at a nice price. You can easily eat and drink for 50 CHF.

Nagomi

Excellent quality, extremely small. A little pricier than the others, but this not just a sushi bar; it is a real restaurant with Japanese dishes you just can’t find anywhere else in Geneva. Reservation absolutely necessary.

Le Thé

This may be a real hole in the wall, but you’ll feel like you’re really in Asia, even though you just stepped off the TPG tram. Incredibly affordable food like you’d eat in the street eateries in Asia. You’ll find some dishes that are rare in Europe, such as xiaolongbao, dainty little pork and cabbage ravioli. Allow plenty of time because the service can be slow. 30 CHF and your belly will be full.

Rambling ’round France: Chartres Cathedral, a Gothic wonder

Chartres makes for an easy, affordable weekend jaunt. There is no lack of things to do.

The Gothic cathedral is of course, the main thing to see, and you can spend 2 days just exploring that.

The cathedral itself, both inside and out, is truly one of the wonders of the world. The crypt includes a Romanesque church on top of which the cathedral was built, Roman ruins, an old Druid well, and a gallery that was probably used by the Druids to worship Bellissima, and later converted into a chapel dedicated to the Mother and Child of Chartres (it is said that the Druid goddess Bellissima also held a baby in her arms, although in a different position from the classic Christian manner).

The tower gives wonderful views of the medieval town, as well as the sculptures, buttresses and framework of the cathedral itself. My neighbor Eric Vivien gives extremely detailed explanations in his tours. Don’t forget to look for the labyrinth in the middle floor of the cathedral as well. On certain days, they clear away the chairs, and let pilgrims walk around it.

Another neighbor, Englishman Malcolm Miller, who fell in love with the stained glass windows in Chartres decades ago, is the great specialist on the Chartres’ stained glass windows, considered by most to be the most beautiful and well preserved in the world. He gives regular tours at 12 and 14H25 except on Sundays. It is best to contact the tourist office at the end of the cathedral esplanade just to make sure. Please note that his tours are private, and not associated to those organized by the tourist office.

Another interesting stopoff is the Loir family stained glass store to the left as you face the cathedral. The Loir family has been making stained glass for generations, and continue to provide cathedrals all over the world with stained glass windows. The shop includes restored as well as contemporary stained glass, and has rotating exhibitions of contemporary artists.

A walk around the medieval city is also breathtaking if you are interested in architecture. During the Middle Ages, the town is said to have had over 120 churches. Some people say the very ground is telluric, meaning that it is full of good (and perhaps holy) energy. That might be one of the reasons that people have been making pilgramages there for at least 5,000 if not 6,000 years, well before Christ was born. Suggestion: get a good map from the tourist office before you start getting lost in the “labyrinth” of the city.

How to get there

easyJet lands at Orly Sud and from there you walk across the street and pick up a car at Sixt. If you rent online well ahead of time, you can take advantage of their Sixti deal for as low as 5 euros a day.

Accommodations

For true pilgrims, there is plenty of lodging at the Maison St Yves. For lovers of luxury, choose the Hôtel Grand Monarque, a Chartres institution where many of the grand bourgeoisie celebrate weddings, baptisms, birthdays and anniversaries. If you are celebrating something special, you can download the program of special dinners and weekend packages from their site.

Otherwise check out the Chartres tourist site for all other types of B & Bs, inns, furnished apartments and hotels.

Restaurants

The Grand Monarque is great for special occasions, and they have a bistro that is open late, but my favorite restaurant is the Restaurant St-Hilaire in the rue St-Hilaire, right off the St-Pierre Church square at the bottom of the hill. They offer both traditional dishes from the region, and a number of more modern (and delightful) ones, and use only products from the region. Chartres is in the Beauce, the Iowa of France, so you’ll find wheat incorporated into some surprising dishes, such as wheat risotto, wheat crème caramel, and, of course, the bread, which they make themselves. All the cheeses on the cheese board are from the Beauce region.

The owner, Mr. Brémont, is the former sommelier of the Grand Monarque, and he always has new and delicious wines on offer. Take his advice. He knows, boy does he know. I always discover some new wine or producer, so each time I go, it’s a new adventure. In Chartres, they consider the Loire Valley wines to be “local”, since the beginning of the Loire Valley is only half an hour away, and Mr. Brémont is from the heart of the Loire Valley.

They offers several menus, one based entirely on products and traditional dishes from the Beauce. They start at 26 euros and go up to around 50. Somehow, I always end up choosing the 26 euro one. It’s about the best quality for the money I know, and changes with the seasons.

NOTE: Reservations are absolutely necessary, and I would suggest calling well in advance.

New terrace for outdoor lovers at Cookie in Vaud

Cookie café and restaurant in Gryon in Vaud has just opened a beautiful new terrace that seats 60 people, with an exquisite view of the Miroir d’Argentine mountain.

The breathtaking Miroir d'Argentine mountain in Vaud.

Hiking, mountain climbing, rock climbing, mountain biking: no loss of things to do around the Miroir d’Argentine

The area around the Miroir d’Argentine is highly frequented during the summer months, thanks to the well marked hiking trails and breathtaking setting, including rocky mountain crags, green valleys with rare botanical varieties, and numerous mountain streams. It is also popular with rock climbers, spa lovers, and mountain bikers.

The café is open all day, so it is a nice place to take a break and soak up the view, or to take in the sunset after a long day of hiking or climbing.

Click here for more detailed information about summer activities in the area.

Take advantage of these nice long summer days while you can!

Ellen Wallace’s post of 26 June 2009 talks about the restaurant smoking ban that came into effect on 1st July 2009 in Valais.

Don’t forget that smoking continues on terraces in most all cantons, even non-smoking ones, so if smoking disturbs you, you might want to request a table that is not next to a table of smokers. On hot summer days and evenings, smoke seems to linger in the air, practically like indoors.

The newly renovated Auberge de Pont-de-Nant we reviewed on 19 June was not able to open on 27 June 2009 as planned.

Renovations had already lasted longer than planned due to the long, snowy winter.  Then on 19 June, a fire ravaged the interior of the inn, destroying all the new installations and decor.

The Grand Muveran mountain is still there in all its majesty, with its rich botanical reserve and hiking trails, but check the restaurant site regularly for re-opening. Experts are still assessing the damage, so unfortunately, we may not be able to benefit from it this summer of 2009.

In the meantime, their catering service is still functioning normally.

Auberge de Pont-de-Nant
1888 Les Plans-sur-Bex
Tel.: 024 498 14 95 – Fax 024 498 34 90
http://pont-de-nant.ch
e-mail: info@pont-de-nant.ch

Sylvie and David Berger’s restaurant and hostel is in an idyllic albeit isolated setting well worth the drive. Located 10 kilometers from Bex, at the foot of the breathtaking Grand Muveran mountain, they offer standard snack fare as well as gourmet meals.

The menu changes every day or so, so there are no daily specials in the traditional sense of the word. For the gourmet meals, starters average between CHF10 and 20, and main courses between CHF20 and 35. I strongly recommend calling ahead, especially if you are going in a group.

Groups are welcome, and reasonably priced, dormitory-style lodging is available.

Pont-de-Nant is not accessible by road during the winter, so they will be opening on 27 June 2009. It is also a bit difficult to reach, so study your map before you take off.

Other sites that may be of interest in planning a weekend or even several days in the area are listed below.

www.sakkado.ch
www.natscape.ch
www.apetitspas.ch
www.alpagedelavare.ch

Their own site gives even more ideas for children.

Refuge de Solalex
1882 Gryon
Tel. 024 498 27 09

The Refuge de Solalex has about as good a raclette as you can find. Jacques Chesaux makes all the condiments straight from scratch, and he doesn’t skimp: pickles, pickled onions, pickled mushrooms, pickled cabbage, and viande de Grison (spicy dried beef) all come with the cheese, grilled in front of an open wood fire.

His tomato fondue is about the best around, as are all the other fondues, thanks to the quality of the cheese as well as to his grandmother’s recipes. Jacques buys 700 to 800 kilograms of Valais tomatoes every year, and vacuum packs them for use year round for his tomato fondue and tomato soup.

The Mont d’Or is roasted over a wood fire, and comes with a large assortment of Jacque’s condiments. The wild mushroom tart and wild mushroom and tomato soups are also a pure but rich delight, along with the curry salad dressing and delicious traditional local desserts made by his partner Valérie.

You can sit inside in the rustic chalet, or outside where you have a splendid view of the rocky Miroir d’Argentine mountain.

The terrace is open all year. The site is surrounded by hiking trails for summer, and cross country and snowshoeing ski tracks for winter.

In summer, it is easy to get there by car or on foot. It’s basically up the mountain from Gryon.

In winter, the road is converted into tracks, so Jacques and Valérie drive people up the mountain in a snowmobile. Children and adults alike love this, especially on a starry night after a fresh snowfall. Reservations are strongly recommended, and imperative in winter.

Daily special CHF18. Fondues CHF22 to 25. All-you-can-eat raclette CHF32. Possible to stop in for just a drink or a snack after a long hike.

Open non-stop. Closed on Thursdays and usually from mid-November to Christmas.

Auberge des Vieux-Chênes
1243 Presinge
Tel. 022 756 12 07

This family-run business knows how to meet family needs.

It is extremely child-friendly, in every way. They offer children a variety of smaller portions of dishes you find on the regular menu, but without the “weird” stuff kids often don’t like. And the staff knows how to talk to children and tend to their personal needs.

While you calmly sip your wine on the terrace that gives on to an enclosed garden, the children can play in the playground or with the rabbits, ducks and dogs, just as if they were at home in their own back yard, all within your view.

The food is mostly traditional, with some modern and interesting twists now and again, such as a summer-style pot au feu, served cold with a remoulade sauce. It is not gourmet dining, but good food in a good atmosphere, where your children are welcome with open arms.

The Auberge des Vieux-Chênes is a perfect place for a Sunday summer jaunt into the nearby Geneva countryside.

The average price is about CHF75 for adults including wine, and CHF35 for children. They have a good selection of drinkable local Geneva wines served by the deciliter.

Château des Avenières
74350 Cruseilles
France
Tel. + 33 (0) 4 50 44 02 23 – Fax + 33 (0) 4 50 44 29 09
http://www.chateau-des-avenieres.com

A 20-minute drive from Geneva, the Château des Avenières, located on the Salève mountain in France, offers panoramic views and a luxurious setting.

Make sure and request a terrace table and ask about the weather conditions before going. If the weather is bad, don’t worry. The dining room is more than worthy of any château.

Fixed-price menus run from 58 to 88 euros, and business lunches go for 29 euros. The restaurant is new, so we are yet to try it, but you will not be disappointed by the view and the exquisite site.

The website gives detailed driving instructions and maps, as well as how to access it by public transport.

The castle also offers 4-star hotel package deals with pool, spa and luxurious rooms, more appropriate for couples seeking a romantic weekend.

The Salève offers numerous activities, which can all be started from the cable car or “téléphérique” in Etrembières. Once you’re up there, there is literally an outdoor activity to suit every age and taste: hang gliding, mountain biking, rock climbing, hiking, and botanical and geological paths and tours. There is also a picnic area and lots of places to snack.

The 17 June 2009 edition of L’Illustré magazine features six great chefs’ favorite restaurants with terraces. All 66 restaurants are located in the French-speaking cantons of Switzerland.

by guest Ellen Wallace, editor, GenevaLunch

Fredy Girardet, godfather of the 2008 Vigne du Monde wine in Féchy, where he lives, being interviewed by journalists

I’ve been waiting for years to say I had dinner with Fredy Girardet. Unfortunately for me, the world’s chef of the century (New York Times labeled him thus) retired and closed his restaurant in Crissier before I managed to get there for dinner. You can imagine my delight, then, when I was invited to join Girardet and Féchy winemakers for dinner Friday night, 12 June, with the menu worked out by the famous chef and Lazare Slaquer with Michel Hug. The last two are part of RSH, a catering firm in Crissier. Break down RSH and you have Philippe Rochat, who took over Girardet’s Crissier restaurant, Slaquer and Hug. This is not your average catering trio and the meal was anything but average.

The dinner was so pleasant that very exceptionally I forgot to take photos of most of the meal, so you’ll have to be content with a shot of the dessert.

First, the setting: the terrace of Domaine de Fischer in Bougy-Villars, a town perched above Féchy that is linked administratively to it. I know it mainly as the home of one of Switzerland’s best chocolate makers, Tristan. The beautiful old winery has a magnificent view of much of Vaud, Lake Geneva and the French Alps.

The meal:

• Langoustine au concombre mentholé, gaspacho de San Marzano (wine, Coup d’oeil, Pinot Blanc 2007, AOC La Côte, Albert Caillat)
• Friolet de turbot, jus de carotte au gingembre (wine, Doral 2007, AOC Féchy, CH Meylan & Fils)
• Volaille fermière à la fleur de courgette truffée (wine, Provokation Absolu 2007, AOC Vaud, Kursner Frères)
• Charlotte de nectarine du Roussillon rafraîchie au lait d’amande (Gewurztraminer 2008, AOC Féchy, Jacques Pélichet)

nectarine, almond milk

The conversation, with Fredy Girardet at my table: the local wines and efforts to try new things, dogs (Girardet’s airedale, who is named after a grape variety and is the fourth such dog in his family, quietly joined us for dinner), sports and how some sports players are paid too much these days, memories of flying over Greenland in a small private jet en route to New York, food and the importance of waiting until it is in season to buy it fresh.

We need to wait a little longer for good peaches, I learned.

Laila Rodriguez provides a list of non-smoking restaurants in the Geneva region in her blog New to geneva? Me too.

The Rambling Epicure covered this Cave Berthaudin’s spring wine tasting and gala dinner at the Beau Rivage in Ellen Wallace’s blog Among the vines.