France meets Oregon in the freshly fallen snow

Guest blogger Warren Bobrow grew up on a farm in the U.S. , which helped him develop a sense of smell, taste and vocabulary similar to that of a passionate master wine maker. His column on food, wine and life, Wild Table, appears daily in the online magazine, Wild River Review. Warren always says, “Trust your instincts and cook with passion!” He has good instincts and intelligent, experienced taste buds, which is why I like his food writing.

Growing up on a farm in New Jersey afforded me an upbringing that was rooted in a fruit orchard that dates back almost a century.

My governess named Gertrude hailed from Germany.  She taught me to climb those gnarly fruit trees and attempt to pick the fruit that the birds had not yet devoured.  I would have to act quickly though and remember I was competing with the unafraid Blue Jays who would seemingly dive-bomb me in competition for these fruits.

Eventually though, I would repeal these opportunistic birds long enough to bring pears down in a straw basket that I have to this day. Gertrude would carefully wrap each of theses pears in small paper bags for several days to further ripen them.

Upon opening the bags the earthy smell of these pears became indelible in my memory.  The haunting aroma of these “cooking” pears sticks in my memory. I can close my eyes and still envision Gertrude smiling about the really juicy ones that I helped pick.

One of her pleasures was making fruit preserves and smaller quantities of pear brandies.  These Eaux de Vie of fire to the tongue, possessing razor sharp fruit aromas, were favorites of mine.  They were made from the tiny, almost inedible pears that dotted the perimeter of the orchard.

When cooked, these formerly hard-to-the-tooth pears would reveal themselves to be sweet and gushing with the essence of fall.  When I walk in the autumn woods and see pear trees, often I will climb them to find that one perfect pear – the one to grace a glass of Eau de Vie of Poire Williams.

Last night it snowed a few quick inches here in New Jersey.  There is a fire in the woodburning stove, I can smell the high notes of burning wood from where I am sitting.  With this aroma firmly in place in my mind’s eye, several Poire Williams Eaux de Vie need to be tasted, savored and explained.

G.E. Massenez, Williams pear brandy

Tasting notes: Sweet and tangy aromas of Poire Williams skins gives way to deeper heating finish. Crisp, uncomplicated and refreshing with long finish.  Think of the first time you smelled a tree-ripened pear.  Then add a slowly simmering pot of pear preserves – then the alcohol lurking in the background suddenly jumping up and greeting your forehead and nose.  Marvelous stuff.  Pure and lightly thirst quenching.  Marvelous with ripe, aged Gruyère cheese.

Produced in France.

Clear Creek Distillery, Pear Brandy/Pure Fruit/Williams Pear

Tasting notes: Soft, toothsome and bold.  Flavors that are reminiscent of a walk in the forest with dried leaves under foot. Almost crunchy on the palate with soft notes of apricot marmalade and blue-veined cheeses.  Sweet finish with dry notes of burning wood and Bourbon vanilla pods.  End of finish has a slight burn on the tongue (perhaps from the brooding, ever-present alcohol?).

Would be salubrious with a caramelized pear tart.

Produced in Oregon in the American Northwest, which has built up quite a reputation for its spirits in recent years.

Verdict?

The Poire Williams from Distillateur a Bassemberg in Alsace was the hands down winner!

Wild River Review contributing editor, Warren Bobrow grew up on a farm in Morristown, New  Jersey in the U.S. A graduate of Emerson College with a degree in film, he spent his senior year as a research assistant in visual thinking at CAVS / MIT. He worked for many years in the corporate world.

His column on food, wine and life, Wild Table, appears daily in the online magazine Wild River Review. Warren also writes for NJMYWay.com, NJ Monthly and SLOWFOODNNJ.org. He has upcoming work in Edible Jersey Magazine on the topic of Organic and Biodynamic Wine and upcoming submissions for the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America. Ed., 2. February brings an article to NJ Savvy Living.  You can follow his moving about and drinkin’ ’round on Twitter @WarrenBobrow1.

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