Rambling ’round France: Chartres Cathedral, a Gothic wonder

Chartres makes for an easy, affordable weekend jaunt. There is no lack of things to do.

The Gothic cathedral is of course, the main thing to see, and you can spend 2 days just exploring that.

The cathedral itself, both inside and out, is truly one of the wonders of the world. The crypt includes a Romanesque church on top of which the cathedral was built, Roman ruins, an old Druid well, and a gallery that was probably used by the Druids to worship Bellissima, and later converted into a chapel dedicated to the Mother and Child of Chartres (it is said that the Druid goddess Bellissima also held a baby in her arms, although in a different position from the classic Christian manner).

The tower gives wonderful views of the medieval town, as well as the sculptures, buttresses and framework of the cathedral itself. My neighbor Eric Vivien gives extremely detailed explanations in his tours. Don’t forget to look for the labyrinth in the middle floor of the cathedral as well. On certain days, they clear away the chairs, and let pilgrims walk around it.

Another neighbor, Englishman Malcolm Miller, who fell in love with the stained glass windows in Chartres decades ago, is the great specialist on the Chartres’ stained glass windows, considered by most to be the most beautiful and well preserved in the world. He gives regular tours at 12 and 14H25 except on Sundays. It is best to contact the tourist office at the end of the cathedral esplanade just to make sure. Please note that his tours are private, and not associated to those organized by the tourist office.

Another interesting stopoff is the Loir family stained glass store to the left as you face the cathedral. The Loir family has been making stained glass for generations, and continue to provide cathedrals all over the world with stained glass windows. The shop includes restored as well as contemporary stained glass, and has rotating exhibitions of contemporary artists.

A walk around the medieval city is also breathtaking if you are interested in architecture. During the Middle Ages, the town is said to have had over 120 churches. Some people say the very ground is telluric, meaning that it is full of good (and perhaps holy) energy. That might be one of the reasons that people have been making pilgramages there for at least 5,000 if not 6,000 years, well before Christ was born. Suggestion: get a good map from the tourist office before you start getting lost in the “labyrinth” of the city.

How to get there

easyJet lands at Orly Sud and from there you walk across the street and pick up a car at Sixt. If you rent online well ahead of time, you can take advantage of their Sixti deal for as low as 5 euros a day.

Accommodations

For true pilgrims, there is plenty of lodging at the Maison St Yves. For lovers of luxury, choose the Hôtel Grand Monarque, a Chartres institution where many of the grand bourgeoisie celebrate weddings, baptisms, birthdays and anniversaries. If you are celebrating something special, you can download the program of special dinners and weekend packages from their site.

Otherwise check out the Chartres tourist site for all other types of B & Bs, inns, furnished apartments and hotels.

Restaurants

The Grand Monarque is great for special occasions, and they have a bistro that is open late, but my favorite restaurant is the Restaurant St-Hilaire in the rue St-Hilaire, right off the St-Pierre Church square at the bottom of the hill. They offer both traditional dishes from the region, and a number of more modern (and delightful) ones, and use only products from the region. Chartres is in the Beauce, the Iowa of France, so you’ll find wheat incorporated into some surprising dishes, such as wheat risotto, wheat crème caramel, and, of course, the bread, which they make themselves. All the cheeses on the cheese board are from the Beauce region.

The owner, Mr. Brémont, is the former sommelier of the Grand Monarque, and he always has new and delicious wines on offer. Take his advice. He knows, boy does he know. I always discover some new wine or producer, so each time I go, it’s a new adventure. In Chartres, they consider the Loire Valley wines to be “local”, since the beginning of the Loire Valley is only half an hour away, and Mr. Brémont is from the heart of the Loire Valley.

They offers several menus, one based entirely on products and traditional dishes from the Beauce. They start at 26 euros and go up to around 50. Somehow, I always end up choosing the 26 euro one. It’s about the best quality for the money I know, and changes with the seasons.

NOTE: Reservations are absolutely necessary, and I would suggest calling well in advance.

The newly renovated Auberge de Pont-de-Nant we reviewed on 19 June was not able to open on 27 June 2009 as planned.

Renovations had already lasted longer than planned due to the long, snowy winter.  Then on 19 June, a fire ravaged the interior of the inn, destroying all the new installations and decor.

The Grand Muveran mountain is still there in all its majesty, with its rich botanical reserve and hiking trails, but check the restaurant site regularly for re-opening. Experts are still assessing the damage, so unfortunately, we may not be able to benefit from it this summer of 2009.

In the meantime, their catering service is still functioning normally.

Auberge de Pont-de-Nant
1888 Les Plans-sur-Bex
Tel.: 024 498 14 95 – Fax 024 498 34 90
http://pont-de-nant.ch
e-mail: info@pont-de-nant.ch

Sylvie and David Berger’s restaurant and hostel is in an idyllic albeit isolated setting well worth the drive. Located 10 kilometers from Bex, at the foot of the breathtaking Grand Muveran mountain, they offer standard snack fare as well as gourmet meals.

The menu changes every day or so, so there are no daily specials in the traditional sense of the word. For the gourmet meals, starters average between CHF10 and 20, and main courses between CHF20 and 35. I strongly recommend calling ahead, especially if you are going in a group.

Groups are welcome, and reasonably priced, dormitory-style lodging is available.

Pont-de-Nant is not accessible by road during the winter, so they will be opening on 27 June 2009. It is also a bit difficult to reach, so study your map before you take off.

Other sites that may be of interest in planning a weekend or even several days in the area are listed below.

www.sakkado.ch
www.natscape.ch
www.apetitspas.ch
www.alpagedelavare.ch

Their own site gives even more ideas for children.

Refuge de Solalex
1882 Gryon
Tel. 024 498 27 09

The Refuge de Solalex has about as good a raclette as you can find. Jacques Chesaux makes all the condiments straight from scratch, and he doesn’t skimp: pickles, pickled onions, pickled mushrooms, pickled cabbage, and viande de Grison (spicy dried beef) all come with the cheese, grilled in front of an open wood fire.

His tomato fondue is about the best around, as are all the other fondues, thanks to the quality of the cheese as well as to his grandmother’s recipes. Jacques buys 700 to 800 kilograms of Valais tomatoes every year, and vacuum packs them for use year round for his tomato fondue and tomato soup.

The Mont d’Or is roasted over a wood fire, and comes with a large assortment of Jacque’s condiments. The wild mushroom tart and wild mushroom and tomato soups are also a pure but rich delight, along with the curry salad dressing and delicious traditional local desserts made by his partner Valérie.

You can sit inside in the rustic chalet, or outside where you have a splendid view of the rocky Miroir d’Argentine mountain.

The terrace is open all year. The site is surrounded by hiking trails for summer, and cross country and snowshoeing ski tracks for winter.

In summer, it is easy to get there by car or on foot. It’s basically up the mountain from Gryon.

In winter, the road is converted into tracks, so Jacques and Valérie drive people up the mountain in a snowmobile. Children and adults alike love this, especially on a starry night after a fresh snowfall. Reservations are strongly recommended, and imperative in winter.

Daily special CHF18. Fondues CHF22 to 25. All-you-can-eat raclette CHF32. Possible to stop in for just a drink or a snack after a long hike.

Open non-stop. Closed on Thursdays and usually from mid-November to Christmas.

Auberge des Vieux-Chênes
1243 Presinge
Tel. 022 756 12 07

This family-run business knows how to meet family needs.

It is extremely child-friendly, in every way. They offer children a variety of smaller portions of dishes you find on the regular menu, but without the “weird” stuff kids often don’t like. And the staff knows how to talk to children and tend to their personal needs.

While you calmly sip your wine on the terrace that gives on to an enclosed garden, the children can play in the playground or with the rabbits, ducks and dogs, just as if they were at home in their own back yard, all within your view.

The food is mostly traditional, with some modern and interesting twists now and again, such as a summer-style pot au feu, served cold with a remoulade sauce. It is not gourmet dining, but good food in a good atmosphere, where your children are welcome with open arms.

The Auberge des Vieux-Chênes is a perfect place for a Sunday summer jaunt into the nearby Geneva countryside.

The average price is about CHF75 for adults including wine, and CHF35 for children. They have a good selection of drinkable local Geneva wines served by the deciliter.

Château des Avenières
74350 Cruseilles
France
Tel. + 33 (0) 4 50 44 02 23 – Fax + 33 (0) 4 50 44 29 09
http://www.chateau-des-avenieres.com

A 20-minute drive from Geneva, the Château des Avenières, located on the Salève mountain in France, offers panoramic views and a luxurious setting.

Make sure and request a terrace table and ask about the weather conditions before going. If the weather is bad, don’t worry. The dining room is more than worthy of any château.

Fixed-price menus run from 58 to 88 euros, and business lunches go for 29 euros. The restaurant is new, so we are yet to try it, but you will not be disappointed by the view and the exquisite site.

The website gives detailed driving instructions and maps, as well as how to access it by public transport.

The castle also offers 4-star hotel package deals with pool, spa and luxurious rooms, more appropriate for couples seeking a romantic weekend.

The Salève offers numerous activities, which can all be started from the cable car or “téléphérique” in Etrembières. Once you’re up there, there is literally an outdoor activity to suit every age and taste: hang gliding, mountain biking, rock climbing, hiking, and botanical and geological paths and tours. There is also a picnic area and lots of places to snack.

Geneva’s star of stars: Chateauvieux chef Philippe Chevrier

Philippe Chevrier of none other than the exclusive Domaine de Chateauvieux in Satigny has fond memories of childhood lake cruises in steamboats. It is therefore with nostalgic pleasure that he took on the task of organizing gourmet cruises on the steamboat Savoie in Geneva, commissioned in 1914 and completely renovated to its original state between 1994 and 2006.

Set price menus or daily specials

You can eat on both daytime or evening cruises, or rent the boat for a private function such as a birthday party or a business meeting.

Chevrier’s CHF65, 3-course lunch menu and CHF39 daily special are a good way to get a reasonably priced taste of his style of cooking so cherished by the Geneva crowd. The children’s menu goes for CHF22.

There are two set menus in the evening. The 4-course one at CHF98, or the 3-course one at CHF85. And there is even a hefty sized special in the evening for CHF56.

Just to get your taste buds working, the current lunch menu starts with sea bream carpaccio with Espelette hot peppers, aubergine caviar and sweet garlic toast; followed by guinea fowl ballottine (boned, stuffed, rolled and tied in the shape of a bundle, then cooked) and wild mushrooms with Sherry sauce served with fried polenta; and a grande finale consisting of a Mara des Bois strawberry and ginger dessert served with lemon and lime sorbet.

It is a perfect way to celebrate an anniversary or birthday, or just have a romantic evening out.

Location and booking

Call the CGN at 0848 811 848 to book the cruise, and then book your table by calling 022 753 93 30 (Philippe Chevrier – Le Traiteur) or e-mailing Chevrier at info@savoie-philippe-chevrier.ch.

Look at the CGN site under Croisières Gastronimiques for details regarding times and locations of these gourmet cruises. Unfortunately, the English on the site is not complete, so you’ll have to look at the French for full details.

You can board at Genève Jardin Anglais, Genève Pâquis, Hermance or Versoix.

Dates

Chevrier’s gourmet cruises are available from 26 April to 25 October 2009.

CAFE METROPOLE

6 rue du Prince
1204 Geneva
+41 22 310 06 70
email: info@cafemetropole.ch
http://www.cafemetropole.ch

Affordable restaurant that often serves as a gathering place for young people before they hit the discos, yet oldies like myself who eat earlier have no trouble fitting in. Seasonal, affordable menu offered by chef Rachid Fadili, offering light fusion cuisine with hints of Asian and Italian, along with more classic dishes like carottes Vichy, sole meunière, and their great specialty, the Metropolitan Truffles Burger with homemade French fries, all in a sleek, contemporary setting. Small terrace. Daily special CHF21. Open until 22:30 and centrally located off the rue du Rhône, across from the Ecole-Club Migros.

CAFE BERRA

1 Place de l’Ecole
1871 Choëx sur Monthey
+41 24 471 05 30
info@caféberra.ch
http://www.cafeberra.ch

In the hills above Monthey, Jean-Yves André and Josiane Raemy, who worked for many years in Asia, offer a pleasant mix of a solid classic French cuisine with notes of Asia here and there. Portions are generous and they only use high-quality local ingredients and wine producers, including Marie-Thérèse Chappaz. The homemade ice cream, sorbet and panna cotta are delicious. Seasonal menus and delightful service by Josiane. Reservations absolutely necessary. 3-course set menus from CHF50 to 65 and daily special CHF22 at lunchtime on weekdays. Terrace.

LE SESFLO

16 Route de Florrisant
1206 Geneva
+41 22 789 6 65
www.restaurantescapade.ch/sesflo

Contemporary setting, young cheerful but competent staff, offering good Mediterranean-inspired food, including an impressive number of original pasta dishes and risottos. Excellent Italian wines, and ever-changing extra-virgin olive oils from Italy, Spain, Greece, set on the table for your tasting. Family-owned, same owners as Restaurant Escapade. Daily special for CHF18. Reservation recommended. Terrace.

David Jewell, an inspired chef and restaurateur

Cookie, Gryon, Vaud, Switzerland – map / Tel: +41 24 498 2233

Australian David Jewell’s cuisine is familiar to those who frequent the Restaurant de Bretaye in the Villars-Gryon ski station in Vaud. In his 5 years there, he transformed the former school lunchroom-style cooking into something tasty and creative, with light Thai touches, and which allowed you to get back out on the slopes fast.

He has now headed down the slopes to the village of Gryon, where he and his wife Anna Jewell, along with David’s former sous-chef Ryan Isamonger who has taken over at the cooking range, transformed a hundred year plus traditional chalet into a bar-restaurant with a soothing blend of contemporary and traditional décor, offering an international, yet somewhat Australian-influenced, menu.

For those who miss brunches, this is the place to go: classic yet inventive egg and bacon combinations, eggs Benedict, buttermilk pancakes, all with David and Ryan’s own skillful “derivations.”

From the Cookie kitchen

Brisbane-trained, Ryan’s true talent lies in simple combinations of good-quality ingredients in novel ways.

Cookie's head chef Ryan Isamonger

Australian fusion, a thoroughly modern presentation

The Australian beef fillet sounds classic enough with its garlic mashed potatoes, but the bok choy and red wine sauce make for a nice mix of Asian and classic French. Meat cooking times are perfect and you’d better have an appetite, because you’re ordering one big hunk of meat.

The calamari with a crispy noodle salad and soya and sesame sauce have that Asian influence that one often finds in Australian fusion cooking, but no matter what your nationality, the hard part is to cook the squids so they are not rubbery or greasy, and Isamonger does it with the precision required.

The outstanding pasta and salads, as well as vegetarian dishes, are tasty and modern, and make for a well-balanced menu with something to suit every member of the family.

The desserts are a delight

Around 20 different homemade sorbets and ice creams are available, and the flavors change with the seasons.  Try the honeycomb ice cream, one of David’s most distinctive inventions. The warm sticky date pudding served with caramel sauce and homemade vanilla ice cream . . . well I could write a whole article about it.

Wine by the glass, great bottles, at the bar or at your table

The wine list is balanced, offering local wines as well as French, Italian, New Zealand and, of course, Australian wines. The red Founder’s Block 2005 from the Katnook Estate, a Cabernet Sauvignon “that has seen the sun,” as they say in French, offers strong hints of black currants and plum with notes of vanilla, and is reasonably priced at CHF 49.

A wide variety of wines are offered by the glass, and one can stop in after a day of skiing for a drink at the bar, which is open all day.

Villars-Gryon, a great place in winter and summer

Cookie looks totally traditional from the outside

Cookie, formerly called Chez Sylvie, opened just in time for the 2008-2009 ski season, and has been fully booked ever since, so make sure and reserve. Anna and David now run the dining room, and the service is efficient yet laid back. Needless to say, everyone speaks English.

Summer opening hours are Thursday through Monday from 11 a.m. until “latish” (Anna says this means until no one else wants to eat, but they will certainly take orders until 9:30 p.m.), with brunch from 9 to 12 on Sundays. The website is still under construction.  The terrace will open soon, and has a panoramic view of the Alpes Vaudoises.

Starter prices run from CHF7.50 to 21 for the tasting platter; main dishes from CHF19.50 to 39.50 for the beef fillet, with desserts from CHF3.50 to 9.90.

To get there, drive to Barboleusaz, take the Route de Solalex for exactly 2 kilometers, and it’s on the right. Lots of parking space.

The Villars-Gryon region offers a wealth of summer activities, including hiking, mountain biking, “mountain” golfing (the golf course is actually a ski slope in winter), mini-golf, hang-gliding, Nordic walking, excursions, a parcours, a spa, private and public swimming pools, tennis courts, etc., and is a perfect place to escape the summer heat for a weekend, since it is only a 1 hour 20 minute drive from downtown Geneva.

Related sites

VillarsGryon tourist bureau

Katnook Estate

Australian fusion cooking

Australian beef

Leshop.ch and Globus for Thai ingredients

Manor-La Placette for Australian beef and lamb